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The New York Times Magazine’s Food & Drink Issue Drops

The New York Times Magazine’s Food & Drink Issue Drops


The edition includes 'Bacon 25 Ways' and a cheesemaker who is trying to replicate buffalo mozzarella stateside

The New York Times Magazine released its annual food issue yesterday, and it toes the line between tackling serious subjects, like Mark Bittman’s article on California’s Central Valley and a profile of Cook’s Illustrated’s Christopher Kimball, and lighter fare like a photo gallery entitled "How to Stuff Your Face Like a President" depicting 12 different leaders of the free world in the midst of chowing down. Bittman also lends his expertise to a story chronicling 25 different dishes that feature America’s favorite self-reflexive ingredient, bacon.

Oenophiles would do well to check out Daniel Duane’s piece on Garagiste owner Jon Rimmerman, who sells $30 million worth of wine over email, while curd nerds will need a handkerchief on hand to wipe up both drool and tears while reading Sam Anderson’s commentary on one man’s quest to create American buffalo mozzarella. And for restaurant critic obsessives, there are plenty of anecdotes from Frank Bruni, Sam Sifton, William Grimes and more in Maya Lau's 'When I Was a New York Times Restaurant Critic...'

In total, this beast of an issue provides a frolicking look at the current state of food, and it's done in that slick, informative style for which The Times Magazine has become renowned. Read it with a cup of fair-trade coffee for breakfast, or a glass of 2009 petit verdot before bed.


The New York Power Lunch Is Back, With New Rules

Charles Passy

The New York power lunch is back, with new rituals for the see-and-be-seen set: Make sure you’re there on the right day, try out a new wardrobe and Midtown is no longer a must.

Business people say they are embracing the opportunity to meet with clients and colleagues over a meal once again.

“I’m sick of my own tuna sandwich,” said Adam Schwartz, co-chief executive officer of Angelo Gordon, a New York-based investment firm. Mr. Schwartz has dined lately at some of Midtown Manhattan’s most noted power-lunch spots, including Casa Lever.

Mr. Schwartz’s recent lunchtime companion at the upscale Italian restaurant was another top executive: Jonathan Mechanic, who chairs the real-estate department at Fried Frank, an international law firm headquartered in the city. As far as Mr. Mechanic is concerned, the days of virtual meetings could soon be numbered as the power lunch resumes its place in the urban fabric.

“In-person is way better than anything,” said Mr. Mechanic. “It’s like the major leagues versus sandlot ball.”


What to Read This Spring: The Best Books on Food

There are two types of cooks: those who slavishly follow recipes, and those who gleefully improvise, viewing recipes as constraints on the creativity that lies at the heart of serving up terrific food. In the harsh assessment of Michael Pollan, recipes are “infantilizing.”

I fall squarely into the first group, unable to prepare anything much more complicated than a fried egg, grilled steak or seared fish fillet without consulting one of several dozen cookbooks—most with grease-stained pages and spines broken from wear—that occupy three shelves in a corner of our kitchen.

To me, there is an inherent disconnect in the idea of a recipe-less cookbook. Why would someone who needs a detailed road map buy a book of vague directions that might not lead to a great meal? And conversely, why would anyone talented enough to conjure marvelous food without recipes ever bother with such a cookbook?

“The New York Times Cooking No-Recipe Recipes” (Ten Speed, 242 pages, $28), by Sam Sifton, food editor at the New York Times, changed my perspective. When I started reading through the book, I dog-eared “no-recipes” that sounded so mouthwatering I absolutely had to prepare them for my wife and visiting adult daughter—immediately. I stopped folding over page corners when I realized that it would be less effortful to mark the dishes that failed to inspire a sprint into the kitchen.

With a breezy narrative style, Mr. Sifton describes about 100 meals that come with plenty of variations and substitutions. Many of these no-recipes originally appeared in his weekly Times newsletter. They are varied, quick to make and emphasize spicy sauces and bold, umami-rich ingredients plucked from an array of cuisines.


Brussels Sprouts Pasta With Bacon and Vinegar

Andrew Purcell for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Carrie Purcell.

This recipe is endlessly adaptable: You can use pancetta or even sliced salami in place of the bacon, and chopped cabbage or torn escarole work well if you don't have sprouts. No shallots? A small red onion will do. Keep in mind different types of bacon (or other cured pork) will render different amounts of fat. When you add the brussels sprouts, if the skillet starts to look a little dry, add a tablespoon of oil to keep things moving. To achieve a nice mix of crisp leaves and tender cores, tear off some of the loose outer leaves from your brussels sprouts they will wilt and blister while the more tightly bundled cores will soften and steam. This recipe is designed for a half pound of pasta though you may be tempted to add extra pasta, the dish will be plenty filling with a whole pound of brussels sprouts.


Rouses Magazine

Our magazine celebrates the Gulf Coast’s unique culture, history and cuisine. Each issue delivers a mix of food, drink, recipes, culinary how-tos, and more. It is one of largest grocery store publications in the nation.

Our roster of award-winning writers and photographers includes contributors to The New York Times, Saveur, Garden & Gun, the Atlantic, Texas Monthly and more.

In this Issue

When I was a young student, I had a professor say that there are two sorts of people in the world: those who buy art to match their sofa, and those who buy their sofa to match their art. Wine is no different. What goes on in the bottle transcends vintage (i.e., the year printed on the label). Some wines—particularly those from the “old world” (those from France, Spain, Italy—anyplace once part of the Roman Empire, basically)—are grown in soil that has been cultivated for a thousand years. You are literally drinking that effort. Wine, in other words, need not be the supporting player it can be the main event.

No matter which method of heat you choose, general steak preparation is universal. Never poke your steak with a fork or use a fork to flip it. It’s tongs or nothing in this game, as puncture wounds will cause moisture loss. You didn’t go all the way to Rouses to buy the best steaks in town just to eat the dry stuff some other stores sell.

Steak Florentine is a cut of meat that is known for its colossal size and shape—a well-marbled T-bone that’s at least 1.5 inches thick and weighs between 1.5 and 3 pounds, on average—but also the specificity with which this gigantic, feed-a-couple steak is to be cooked.

n home kitchens, cauliflower “steaks” are the center-stage-ready, crowd-pleasing—dare I say, meaty?—way to feed a crowd (even one with all different kinds of dietary restrictions!) while still being able to create a satisfying, zhuzhed-up meal. Inherently vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free and keto-friendly, these cheekily named, unexpected showstoppers might not be “steaks” in the traditional sense, but they’re tasty, satisfying and surprisingly simple to prepare. .


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Via Carota’s Insalata Verde

Bobby Doherty for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Maggie Ruggiero.<br, via >Prop stylist: Rebecca Bartoshesky.

At Via Carota, the charming West Village restaurant run by the partners Jody Williams and Rita Sodi, the menu description for insalata verde does little to give away any details about what makes it so unbelievably, mouth-smackingly perfect. A visual inspection of the dish reveals only leaves of endive, butter lettuce, frisée and watercress all piled as high as gravity will allow, topped by a drizzle of dressing studded generously with shallots and mustard seeds. In truth, all the secrets of this otherworldly salad lay in the graceful, unlikely application of a flavorless one: water. First, the five carefully chosen types of lettuce are all triple-washed to yield what Williams called “a super happy salad.” Next, the minced shallots are given a quick rinse under cold water — instead of a long maceration in vinegar — to keep them shalloty and savory and prevent them from becoming too acidic, which could overwhelm the delicate lettuces. And finally, and perhaps most surprising, Williams adds a spoonful of warm water to the vinaigrette. “We add warm water to make it more palatable,” she explained. “Pure vinegar is just too strong — it assaults the taste buds. We want a salad dressing so savory and delicious that you can eat spoonfuls of it. We want you to be able to drink it!” This might just become your go-to vinaigrette. Spoon it liberally over everything from boiled asparagus to farro salad to steak and fish and roast chicken. It’s so good that you might even be tempted to pour it into a glass and top it off with sparkling water.


Why I'm Saying Farewell to the Best Damn Job in the World

You can eat like a king, if it doesn&rsquot kill you first. After a decade of sublime meals, Esquire's Food & Drinks Editor Jeff Gordinier puts down his plate one last time.

If you&rsquove been stuck in a Netflix feedback loop for the duration of the pandemic, you may&rsquove seen me on TV. I appear in the Montreal episode of Somebody Feed Phil. At some point in the fall of 2019, my friend Phil Rosenthal, the host of the show, sent an email asking whether I wanted to fly up to Canada and eat a ridiculous amount of food. Naturally I said yes.

But even as a professional food writer, even as a hearty eater, even as someone who once watched a TV episode in which Anthony Bourdain crawls through a veritable decathlon of foie gras in Quebec, I wasn&rsquot prepared for what was about to happen. I met Rosenthal at the Cabane à Sucre Au Pied de Cochon. This sugar shack, overseen by the stout and feral Canadian chef Martin Picard, is like a spa resort cooked up by the Marquis de Sade. I had never seen so much food in my life. The ascending levels of gluttony, the churning oceans of calories, the steaming platters of organ meats&mdashI&rsquom pretty sure you can identify the moment in the episode when my complexion shifts from the ruddiness of appetite to a clammy, chartreuse sheen of nausea and fear. I remember thinking, They&rsquore trying to kill me.

And that&rsquos the core of a realization that I have had over the past few years: This way leads to death. I&rsquom sorry if that messes with your fantasies about a future career in food writing. Throughout the past decade&mdashabout half of it at the food section of The New York Times, half of it here at Esquire&mdashI have become accustomed to hearing people tell me, &ldquoYou have the best job in the world!&rdquo The truth is that eating your way around the country takes a serious toll on your body, your family life, and your emotional equilibrium. For a man in his mid-50s, it&rsquos roughly as sustainable as Russian roulette.

I have decided to stop while I&rsquom ahead. After almost five years on the job, I&rsquom writing my last food column for Esquire. It&rsquos time for someone else to take over, and it&rsquos time for me to stop acting like I&rsquom 25. Yes, there have been highs along the way. When you&rsquore on the road looking for candidates for the magazine&rsquos annual Best Bars list as well as its iconic Best New Restaurants franchise, you&rsquore essentially hunting for euphoria. You trudge through a lot of mediocre meals you wake up at 4:00 in the morning and catch another flight to another city you persist because you&rsquore waiting for those rare times when the heavens open up and you hear the angels sing. I felt that at Angler in San Francisco, Atomix in New York City, Kalaya in Philadelphia, Felix Trattoria in Los Angeles, Seven Reasons in Washington, D.&thinspC.

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I also endured afternoons when I felt so sour and bloated from shoving my face into the endless trough that I started to have near-erotic longings for the ancient practice of fasting. I remember the haze of a week during which I managed to hit six cities: Asheville, Birmingham, Atlanta, Miami, Austin, Los Angeles. By the end of it, I worried that I&rsquod become a lab rat in a scientific study of gluttony. I won&rsquot lie: It has dawned on me in recent years that some of the most celebrated figures in food writing (Anthony Bourdain, A.&thinspA. Gill, Jonathan Gold, and my Esquire predecessor, Joshua Ozersky) did not make it to retirement age.

Jim Harrison, no stranger to excess, wrote about food for Esquire and died at 78. He left behind a vast body of literary work, including a short poem called &ldquoPoet No. 7,&rdquo in which he suggested that the secret to riding a horse bareback is to hold on. &ldquoFinally, our legs must grow into the horse,&rdquo he offered, &ldquobecause we were never meant to get off.&rdquo I hear you, Jim, but I have to give it a try.

Thousands of meals. Millions of calories. Most of it? A blur&mdashdevoured and forgotten along the way. But some dishes, like some songs, burn an impression into your memory. These are the bites that, for me, have become a sort of mental soundtrack to the past few years.

  • Gaeng bumbai aubergine at Nari, San Francisco
  • Braised artichoke at Green Almond Pantry, Washington, D.&thinspC.
  • Leah&rsquos cabbage with smoked sausage and pork-neck bisque at Leah & Louise, Charlotte
  • Pork jowl with chayote squash, kabayaki butter, and Kalamata aioli at Mokyo, New York City
  • Roasted tomatoes with hot honey at Misi, Brooklyn
  • Oyster mushroom kebab at Bavel, Los Angeles
  • Biscuits with cane syrup at JuneBaby, Seattle
  • Nancy cakes with cultured butter, smoked trout roe, and chives at Nancy&rsquos Hustle, Houston
  • Calabash crab claws at Alewife, Richmond
  • Soft egg with caviar at Alter, Miami
  • Seafood gumbo at Fieldtrip, New York City
  • Tuxedo No. 2 cocktail at Flora Bar, New York City

EDITOR&rsquoS NOTE: 2021 is going to be a big, pivotal year for bars and restaurants, and Esquire will be there, as always. Look for our Best Bars in America list in our Summer issue and our Best New Restaurants list in our Winter issue.


The final years

In 1999, Ruth Reichl was appointed chief editor. She was the first ever chief editor from outside the magazine, having previously been a restaurant critic for the New York Times.

Ruth Reichl at The Great GoogaMooga Festival, May 2012. Timothy Krause / wikimedia / 2012 / CC BY 2.0

“The magazine was finally jolted into contemporary culture in 1999, when Ruth Reichl was appointed editor… she brought a new sensibility to the magazine.” [15] Smith, Andrew F., ed. Savoring Gotham: A Food Lover’s Companion to New York City. Page 242.

During the response to the 9/11 attack in New York City in 2001, the staff of Gourmet magazine used their test kitchens to cook food for the first responders. “Reichl recounted how she and her staff had rallied to help the first responders. Using their kitchens to cook up comfort food classics like lasagna and chili rather than to test the latest fashionable recipe, the editorial staff felt compelled to feed their city.” [16] Smith, Andrew F., ed. Savoring Gotham: A Food Lover’s Companion to New York City. Page 242.

Under Reichl, some of Gourmet’s covers become more text-cluttered, looking more like supermarket checkout stand rags garishly shouting for attention.

Gourmet February 2007, showing a cover cluttered with text.

One of the “missteps” under Reichl sometimes cited is an August 2004 piece on lobster by David Foster Wallace (born 1962, committed suicide 12 September 2008).

Reichl commissioned him to write a piece on the Maine Lobster Festival. Instead, he produced a controversial dissertation, entitled “Consider the Lobster”, about whether and how much pain lobsters feeling upon being dumped into the pot.

“When she took over as editor Ruth Reichl, former New York Times restaurant critic, claimed she wanted to make the magazine the New Yorker of food, which many of us took to mean that she was going to stuff it full of staggeringly long, wonderfully in-depth, capricious, whimsical pieces. In truth she only realised that ambition once, when she ran a massively long piece by the late novelist David Foster Wallace called ‘Consider the Lobster’. Sent to cover a Maine lobster festival, he filed a rambling treatise on whether lobsters feel pain, complete with his famous footnotes. Thousands of Gourmet readers wrote in to complain. This was not what they bought the magazine for. They wanted perfect incorruptible recipes for pumpkin pie, complete with filthy food porn photography.” [17] Rayner, Jay. Gourmet Magazine to close. Manchester: The Guardian. 5 October 2009. Retrieved July 2010 from: http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2009/oct/05/food-and-drink-magazines

Here’s an excerpt from Wallace’s controversial piece:

“However stuporous the lobster is from the trip home, for instance, it tends to come alarmingly to life when placed in boiling water. If you’re tilting it from a container into the steaming kettle, the lobster will sometimes try to cling to the container’s sides or even to hook its claws over the kettle’s rim like a person trying to keep from going over the edge of a roof. And worse is when the lobster’s fully immersed. Even if you cover the kettle and turn away, you can usually hear the cover rattling and clanking as the lobster tries to push it off. Or the creature’s claws scraping the sides of the kettle as it thrashes around. The lobster, in other words, behaves very much as you or I would behave if we were plunged into boiling water (with the obvious exception of screaming).” [18] Wallace, David Foster. “Consider the Lobster” in Gourmet Magazine. August 2004.

Loyal readers would come to blame the magazine’s eventual demise on Reichl for pieces such as this.

Some embittered readers said the magazine got what it deserved, as it had got too out of touch with them in every way. Some readers felt that the changes in the 2000s made the magazine too pedestrian, and run-of-the mill that the magazine was actually educational up until the 2000s, after which it became more style than substance, and more about beautiful people than food. One of the final issues, in September 2009, had fashion models cooking in the Hamptons.

But in reality, the readers were still with Gourmet, despite the Reichl naysayers. In 2008, Gourmet had a circulation just shy of a million readers — 980,000, but the decisive factor in its demise appears to have been advertising revenue. Ad pages had dropped 50% in 2009 from 2008.

And the magazine wasn’t looking good compared to its main competitor, Bon Appetit. In 2009, Bon Appetit had better numbers all round: 1.4 million circulation (vs Gourmet’s 980,000), higher readership average income ($83,563 US versus $81,179 for Gourmet readers), and younger readers (49 years median age, versus 50.3 for Gourmet.) [19] ”Gourmet led the food category in advertising, with 1,333 ad pages last year, a 1 percent increase over 1989. The magazine’s average circulation for the last six months of 1990 was 899,549, well above the 725,000 circulation that the magazine guaranteed its advertisers. Despite an 8 percent drop in newsstand sales, circulation rose 11 percent from a year earlier, according to the Audit Bureau of Circulations.” — A New Editor for Gourmet. The New York Times. 7 March 1991. And, to boot, that main competition, Bon Appetit, was also owned by Condé Nast — so the company could lose one food magazine, and still have a “premium” one in its stable of publications.

In the second half of 2009, the McKinsey & Co. consulting company helped Condé Nast (owned by S.I. Newhouse Jr at the time) identify which of its magazines to kill. The food magazine recommended to go was Gourmet, and that was that.

“It was really an unconscionable act,” says Caroline [Bates]. “There was no sense of history of this magazine.” [20] Henry, Bonnie. Critic for now-gone Gourmet magazine savors the memories. Tucson, Arizona: Arizona Daily Star. Monday, 28 December 2009.

The last issue was November 2009. It does not look like a last issue, because it was prepared the month before when Gourmet’s employees had no idea that the sudden-death end was weeks away. The 2010 issues for January, February and March were already planned, even to the point that food was being photographed for them. [21] Clifford, Stephanie. Ruth Reichl Speaks About Closing of Gourmet. New York Times. 6 October 2009.

The final magazine cover, November 2019. The cover had returned to its uncluttered self. This cover was for newsstand sales, there was a separate cover for subscribers.

The end was publicly announced on 5th October the staff were given only a few days to pack and vacate the offices.

The bean counters that recommended the closing of Gourmet just assumed that its readers, and advertisers, would be happy with Bon Appetit magazine instead. But the two magazines were night and day. Bon Appetit readers were looking primarily for meal ideas while “Gourmet addressed readers, both male and female, who were not anxious about what to cook for dinner but were more generally interested in the culinary world around them.” [22] Smith, Andrew F., ed. Savoring Gotham: A Food Lover’s Companion to New York City. Page 214.

Helen Rosener wrote that Bon Appetit had always been “that food magazine that isn’t Gourmet.” [23] Rosener, Helen. Where Are They Now? The Gourmet Masthead, One Year Later. Grubstreet.com. 5 October 2010. Accessed August 2019 at http://www.grubstreet.com/2010/10/the_death_of_gourmet_one_year.html

In 2010, analysts noted that instead of transferring to Bon Appetit, Gourmet’s stable of advertisers and loyal readers had simply “poofed”.

“Some business analysts speculate that Condé Nast’s plan is to move Gourmet’s readers to Bon Appetit. Subscribers, unless they protested, became subscribers to Bon Appetit instead. It is unclear yet if this will work for the company. The two readerships often sneered at each other across dinner tables. Gourmet was more upscale than Bon Appetit, aimed at a highly-educated market, who wouldn’t be caught dead holding a copy of ‘Bon Appetit’ in their hands. Bon Appetit, while aimed at affluent people like Gourmet, is considered more “accessible” and has simple recipes with few intellectual or execution challenges to them.

When Gourmet was closed, observers expected an industry food fight. Bon Appétit’s circulation was forecast to bloom as it absorbed former readers of Gourmet, and other magazines began eyeing Gourmet’s list of more than 900,000 subscribers. Though Gourmet was not thick with ad pages, its advertisers were expected to jump to competing high-end food magazines, like Food & Wine, Saveur and Bon Appetit. Half a year after Gourmet’s final issue, in November, the Gourmet readership and ad base seem to have largely vanished.” [24] Clifford, Stephanie. Fans of Gourmet Magazine Accept No Stand-Ins. New York Times. 16 May 2010.

In June 2010, Condé Nast announced that by the end of 2010, Gourmet Magazine would be revived for Apple Computer’s iPad. The magazine as an app for iPad was released publicly on 23 September 2010, in Apple’s iTunes store. [25] Schramm, Mike. Gourmet magazine to return as iPad app. Engadget.com. 22 June 2010. Accessed August 2019 at https://www.engadget.com/2010/06/22/gourmet-magazine-to-return-as-ipad-app/ .

Kemp Minifie, formerly of the Gourmet Magazine food department, implied in an email that it was a new bunch of people doing the app: “‘Gourmet Live’, an app, is due out any day but I’m not involved in that. CNP farmed it out to another company altogether.” [26] Kemp Minifie. Email to Sarah Moulton. September 2010. Accessed August 2019 at https://saramoulton.com/2010/09/gourmet-magazine-is-back-in-a-new-form/

The app lasted for a few years then disappeared. (An app called Gourmet Traveller currently in the app store as of 2019 is for an Australian magazine and has nothing to do with Gourmet.)

At the same time, a website called Gourmet Live was launched in 2010 at live.gourmet.com. A few years later, the web site disappeared, with the URL pointing readers instead to Epicurious.


The New York Times Magazine’s Food & Drink Issue Drops - Recipes

--This is a huge assortment of links compiled by the redoutable Canadian attorney-for-native causes, Bill Henderson, whose Aboriginal Links are thorough, well-organized, and pretty-pages. He likes good food, evidently, possibly a habit learned from his Native wife. A huge assortment here of links to food-related pages. Unfortunately, a few of the most interesting ones are deadlinks (Rio Lara-Bellon's compilation of Native recipes--gopher archive is missing, under World Food Tour the Chocolate-Lover's Web Page, which I immediately tried to access, slavering a bit or byte) -- gone, those, without forwarding URLs, alas.

-- Amy Gale prepared this, has no Native American recipes, but there are some pretty good ones for fondues, meat loaf, and many other things. These recipes were generally posted to one of the food newsgroups over the past 2 years. Later, I hope to find Rio Lara Bellon's archive of Native recipes she collected, Pablo Bellon says University of Wisconsin is messing with its network, the gopher subdirectory where they were is empty.

--Frybread--Tasty Symbol of all-Indian unity
--Native cookbooks --Nutrition info, cookbooks for kids
--Wild rice recipes --Maple sugar/syrup recipes
--Corn, hominy, cornmeal -- Beans and Greens
--Squash, pumpkin --Deermeat, Meat
--Fish, birds --Fruit and Berries
--Herbal Teas, Culinary Herbs --Xocoatl (Chocolate), Aztecs (and south) YUM!

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CREDITS: Page logo of bear stars constellation (big dipper and others) is probably drawn in black ink by Norval Morrisseau, Gull Lake Anishnabg artist, founder of Medicine Painting style. It was donated to Akwesasne Notes in 1974 and used only once: to put a medicine sign under an article by AIM leader John Trudell, about cleaning ourselves up physically and spiritually from alcohol and other non-Indian vices. I recovered it as part of my saving Notes Great Period art project, traced in FreeHand and colored for thes pages. I drew the starmoon. Translation note: Wiisiniwan, the Anisnaabemowin word for recipes topping this page, might really be better interpreted as "Skill or talent for making food good to eat.".


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